To use and diffuse: All about essential oils

This Is Essential

If you're anything like us, self-care is a necessary part of your daily routine. (Bath bomb? Check. Face mask? Check. Personal bottle of sangria? Check.) And as the air starts dipping toward less-than-comfortable temperatures here in the Great White North, we've been stocking up on our essential oils to keep our homes smelling fresh and our skin, nails, and hair feeling healthy and hydrated.

It probably doesn't surprise you to know that the essential oils industry has been booming (this year in particular), with global anxiety spiking and plenty of time on our hands to marinate in our favourite calming bath oil. It got us thinking, when did our obsession with essential oils start? And do they actually work, or have we just been inhaling too many of the fumes (so to speak)?

We've done the research. (And with more than 100 different essential oils to go through, let's just say: you're welcome.) Keep scrolling for all you need to know about one of the most popular self-care products.

A Whole Lotta History

The ancient Egyptians gave us a lot of our favourite pop culture moments, from "Walk Like An Egyptian" to inspiring some of the most wicked cat-eyes we've ever seen. Turns out, they also gave us what we now refer to as "aromatherapy," and ancient Egypt is one of the birthplaces of essential oils — alongside India and Persia — though the method of production was a little different than what we have today. Instead of placing plant materials in animal fats to garner those delicious smells, nowadays we distill the essential oils using steam, which Islamic cultures have been doing since as early as the 8th century C.E.

In terms of what they used them for back in 18,000 B.C.E., it's not that different from today. (Although they were a heck of a lot more expensive.) From using oils in religious rituals and cosmetics, to holistic medicine and covering up B.O. during a time when they had some questionable bathing habits, the industry really hasn't changed all that much. (Even though, thankfully, our bathing routines have. )

The term "aromatherapy," however, didn't exist until 1937. French chemist René-Maurice Gattefossé coined the term after burning his hand in a laboratory accident and using pure lavender oil to ease the pain. His hand went on to heal well with minimal scarring, and as a result of his subsequent studies, many injured soldiers during World War II were treated with essential oils. 

When we talk about essential oils, we're talking about thousands of years of international trade, which is pretty cool. Even more fascinating is that essential oils only come from a few thousand plants (for context, the world has roughly 390,900 known plant species), with the majority of the ones we recognize and use for their great scents coming from the tropics.

We've made a list of some of the world's most popular essential oils, to tell you a little bit about them and what they're used for:

Lavender: Lavender oil is currently produced around the world, though it originated in Mediterranean countries, as it requires full sun, well-drained soil, and temperatures of 20 to 30 degrees Celsius to thrive. France is probably one of the most well-known regions for lavender oil production, but Bulgaria overtook the global market in 2012 after French lavender plants suffered a bacterial infection. And while we love having it in our cosmetics today, it was once used as a solvent in oil painting. (But don't go around sniffing the paintings in the AGO.)

Peppermint: It's arguably the most popular time of year for all things peppermint-related (pass the After Eights, stat), so this fancy hybrid is especially top of mind. It hails naturally from Europe and the Middle East and is used for lots of different things, from food and medicine, to cosmetics and household supplies, like candles or even pest repellents. It's also used therapeutically for endurance athletes to increase stamina and performance.

Eucalyptus: Even though it's native to Australia, China is currently the main trade producer, along with South Africa, Spain, Portugal, Brazil, Australia, Chile, and Swaziland. Like peppermint oil, eucalyptus oil has a variety of functions. It's used as a food and medicinal ingredient; an insect repellent and biopesticide; in homewares such as candles and air fresheners; in mining to separate sulfide minerals; and is a great cleaning agent due to its natural antimicrobial and antiseptic properties. Plus, it is sometimes blended with other things, such as ethanol and petrol.

Frankincense: Translated in French to mean "high-quality incense," Frankincense is an aromatic resin derived from Boswellia trees and has been a popular commodity for more than 6,000 years, when it was first being traded along the Arabian Peninsula. Today, the primary species of Boswellia trees for production are classified as threatened, and it's predicted they'll face an even further decline of up to 50% in the next two decades. It's mostly used medically, particularly in Chinese, Egyptian, and Persian medicine, though it held a prominent role in religious texts and offerings: It can be found in the sacrificial legislation of the ancient Hebrews; in the Book of Exodus in the Christian Bible; in the Book of Jeremiah in the Hebrew Bible; and is one of the three gifts presented to the baby Jesus by the Three Wise Men in the New Testament.

Tea Tree: You've probably seen this supposedly handy oil popping up more and more often in your drug store's cosmetics aisle, since it's long been touted as an effective treatment for a wide range of skin conditions — though there's been very limited testing to actually prove its efficacy. However, there has been some (minor) evidence that it might work in treating acne and athlete's foot. It hails from Queensland and Australia, and because it's poisonous if consumed orally (like a lot of things over there), this is one tea you don't want to drink.

Sage: There are several different kinds of sage oil, with the most common being Dalmation sage, Clary sage, and Spanish sage. This popular plant comes from the Mediterranean and has long held an important role in medicinal and spiritual practices. Burning sage oil in censers, for example, is a popular ritual that has been used by many cultures globally since ancient times, and is still common today. (It's even been recommended to President-Elect Joe Biden as a means of cleansing the White House of bad vibes.)

Jasmine: This oil comes from the white flowers of the jasmine plant, and is thought to have originated in Iran, but is now found in other tropical climates worldwide. And while some of its benefits are based more in folklore than actual fact (such as being an aphrodisiac), studies have shown jasmine oil has antidepressant and antiseptic properties.

Olive: We've saved the best for last. Olive oil has been a pantry staple since roughly 8,000 B.C.E., and it's found in everything from religious rituals to soap; Aristotle even recommended applying it to the cervix for birth control (but we don't recommend you try that at home).

Money Makers

While 2020 has been tough on some global markets, the essential oil business is one you can bank on. While the global economy is showing an overall decline this year compared to last, with projections for 2021 not enough to fully recover any losses (thanks, COVID), the essential oils industry is actually up this year, with a valuation of US $9.9 billion compared to $7 billion in 2019. And it's only expected to grow: Research shows that the market is poised to hit a cool $14.1 billion by 2026 based on current trends. (Looks like that's the oil industry to be in.)

And there's a market superstar to look out for: Orange oil is leading the pack, thanks in part to it being non-greasy and having an eco-friendly extraction process. Joining its ranks are tea tree oil, lavender, lemon, and peppermint, with current and rising demand for essential oils that are believed to have antibacterial, anti-fungal, antiviral, and antimicrobial properties. 

One thing's for sure — we'll spend anything if we're told it will make us feel, smell, or look better. (Especially in 2020.) And while we can't speak for science, we can tell you about the most popular ways to use essential oils for the best self-care money can buy. 

One of the reasons the industry does so well is because you can put essential oils in pretty much everything from food to cosmetics. They're especially popular for at-home use in whipping up homemade beauty concoctions and treatments, although not all oils can be used the same ways. (See above re: poisoning via tea tree oil. ) So if you're looking for a DIY beauty mask, or wonder which essential oils work best for brittle nail-beds, here's what you need to know...

For hair: Our fellow curly girls and guys will know there's nothing like a homemade hot oil treatment to bring bounce and shine back into our hair. But when it comes to essential oils, you'll want to combine just a few drops with your shampoo or conditioner, or combine it with a carrier oil (oils that smell more neutral and aren't necessarily distilled), such as coconut or olive oil. Each oil will affect your hair differently, so it's up to you to decide what's best (or if a combo is the way to go). One thing to note: Essential oils should not go on an irritated scalp (or on damaged skin in general), especially if they're undiluted, as they can cause infections and adverse reactions.

For skin: Our skin is a sensitive organ, and navigating the realm of natural skincare can be tricky. While most of us aren't applying essential oils directly to our skin (and most resources recommend mixing them with a carrier oil first, before application), certain oils, such as rose, neroli, bergaptene-free bergamot (regular bergamot can burn your skin when exposed to sunlight), and rosemary are fairly safe if applied directly to your skin in moderation. There are some definite don'ts, though: undiluted tea tree oil (if you're using a product where this is an ingredient, you'll want it near the bottom of the list); mint and citrus, which are known to cause burns; and lavender, which is a fairly common skin allergen. It's also worth noting that for many people, skin reactions don't occur until the second or third time their skin is exposed to a substance or product, so you'll want to do more than one patch test to make sure a product or oil is right for you — before you're skin-deep in something harmful. (Literally.)

For nails: We've given tea tree oil a pretty bad rap so far, but things are about to look up — especially if you have toenail fungus. Once again, the research is limited, but the general takeaway is that using tea tree oil to treat toenail fungus certainly won't hurt and could be beneficial in treating it. However, it does need to be mixed with a carrier oil before use to avoid harm to your skin.

If you're just looking for a little something for dry or brittle nails, then there are plenty of home remedies using various essential oils to choose from. We've found an easy DIY recipe here.

For aromatherapy: If you run more on the anxious side (and let's face it, who doesn't in 2020?), then aromatherapy is a fairly low-risk option to try, especially if you're not prone to allergies or breathing problems. When we inhale essential oils, the scent molecules travel from our olfactory nerves straight to our brains, where they trigger the amygdala (the emotional centre of the brain). Of course, all essential oils will illicit different reactions. Sharp scents, like peppermint, while smelling great, are probably not ideal for calming down. If you're unsure whether or not you're allergic to certain scents, it's best to avoid inhaling oregano oil, cinnamon bark, jasmine, lemongrass, ylang ylang, chamomile, and bergamot, all of which more commonly trigger reactions. Experts also recommend avoiding diffusers or anything that creates a vapour, as it lingers in the air longer and can also leave others nearby exposed to potentially triggering scents.

Treat Yo' Self

With the holidays just around the corner, we can finally take the time for some much needed R&R, and we're sure you could use it, too. We've been encouraging everyone to shop their favourite Canadian brands, so we're ending today's Long Shot with links to some of Canada's most popular essential oil businesses. There's nothing like starting your Sunday with a little bit of pampering, especially during the time of year when our hair, skin, and nails need it most

Check out these businesses for all your essential oil needs:

• Clarri Hill — Toronto, ON
• Aleppo Savon — Calgary, AB
• Calli Essentials — Campbellville, ON
• Natura Soap Company — Kamloops, BC
• Nature Notes Aromatherapy — Calgary, AB
• Iremia Skincare — Toronto, ON
• The Hemp Spot — Ajax, ON
• Vitruvi — Vancouver, BC
• Saje Natural Wellness — Vancouver, BC
• Lohn — Toronto, ON
• Rocky Mountain Soap Co. — Canmore, AB
• Woodlot — Vancouver, BC
• Fern & Petal — Vancouver, BC
• Maison Simons — Quebec City, QC

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