What does "clean" really mean?

Coming Clean

If you’re like us, you’ve probably heard about (and been intrigued by) the clean beauty movement — but what exactly does “clean beauty” even mean? And is it really worth the hype?

In short, clean beauty can be described as a trend in the skincare and makeup space, which consists of products that provide more transparent ingredient lists that tout a lack of “toxic” ingredients.

While this might seem simple enough, the debate over which ingredients should be excluded from the definition have varied and the regulations surrounding them are pretty inconsistent.

What Constitutes 'Clean'?

Because of contradictory and sometimes non-existent regulations, finding better-for-you products is more of a challenge than it should be. Plus, the landscape becomes even more confusing to navigate when you throw in words like “natural, organic and green” — since they don’t all necessarily mean the same things.

While these words are often used in conjunction with one another, clean beauty products don’t have to contain all-natural ingredients, and products that claim to contain naturally-occurring ingredients aren’t always safer.

To the same end, clean doesn’t always mean organic, either. That’s because an organic label usually just means that a product is made without pesticides, fertilizers and GMOs.

As the entire concept of greenwashing — a marketing tactic used by companies to exhibit an ecologically responsible public image — makes clear, green can mean a whole lot of things. It might mean cruelty-free, plant-derived, vegan, or eco-friendly. It can also refer to a product’s packaging, which might be recyclable or made using less plastic waste.  

While Canadian regulations already monitor and limit the levels of specific ingredients like preservatives, cleansing agents and fragrances, many people understandably prefer to avoid putting some of the more questionable ingredients on their skin entirely.  

A Controversial Conundrum 

So, what are some of the most toxic ingredients, and why are people going out of their way to avoid them?

While the list certainly doesn't end here, we’re breaking it down into four central sections: fragrance, formaldehyde, parabens, and PFAS. Although it might not always be possible to avoid the following ingredients entirely, definitely try to limit your intake when you can.

Fragrance: An alluring scent might be the factor that gets you to pick up a product in the first place, but both natural and artificial fragrances can cause irritation. While we most definitely wouldn’t recommend slathering your face with essential oils, either, artificial fragrances are generally made with chemical preservatives and solvents, which can make them extra-irritating for sensitive skin types.

What’s also a little eerie is that the word “fragrance” can be used to disguise 3,000 chemicals that don’t actually have to be disclosed at all. That doesn’t necessarily mean you can only use scentless products, though — just keep an eye out for ones that have a higher concentration of fragrance. And, if a new addition to your skincare or makeup rotation causes problems, maybe consider that its scent just might be the culprit.

Formaldehyde: Formaldehyde is the same chemical that’s used to preserve dead bodies, but it’s also produced naturally in some of the foods you eat everyday (onions, apples, spinach and bananas to name a few). In large doses, formaldehyde can be lethal, but it’s commonly used as a preservative in a lot of hair and skin products (in very small doses). You might also see this one listed as “methylene glycol” or “formalin.”

Though it’s particularly dangerous when it’s inhaled in copious amounts over a long period of time, some lab studies have also shown that it can be absorbed through the skin, which, needless to say, means you should avoid it when possible.

Parabens: Parabens refer to a group of chemicals that are commonly used in makeup and skincare products to help preserve them. A few of the most common include butylparaben, propylparaben, methylparaben and isobutylparaben.

As the chemical mimics estrogen, it’s said that it can interfere with your hormones. While parabens also occur naturally in certain food products (like strawberries and vanilla), our skin lacks the ability to break them down. Because of this, they can enter the bloodstream intact and cause us to produce less estrogen. In turn, parabens have the potential to cause reproductive issues and researchers are studying a possible link to breast cancer, too.

PFAS: Also known as the “forever chemicals,” PFAS (or perfluoroalky and polyfluoroalkyl substances) all share elemental bonds of fluorine and carbon. The problem with this is that these bonds are so strong that they’re difficult to break down, meaning that they might linger for much longer than we’d want them to.

A recent study demonstrated that PFAS were included in particularly high levels in foundations, waterproof mascaras, and long-wear lipsticks. When used regularly, it’s said that these chemicals can bioaccumulate in the body. They’ve also been linked to hormone disruption, thyroid disease, and cancer.

Toxic Time Travel

While regulation in today’s beauty industry could be better, some of the products used throughout history would really make your jaw drop.

Lead Foundation: After surviving smallpox in 1562, Queen Elizabeth I wanted to cover the scars that the illness left behind. Given that modern foundations weren’t available, the queen relied on a mixture of lead and vinegar called ceruse. And she wasn’t alone — the concoction was sold commercially and was widely adopted by women looking for a paper-white complexion. While the exact cause of the queen’s death isn’t known, one theory is blood poisoning, caused by her dedication to her signature look.

Arsenic Skincare: Nineteenth century newspapers were littered with bad beauty ads, including ones for Dr. Simms’ Arsenic Complexion Wafers. With arsenic as the key ingredient, the ingestible product promised to remove pimples, freckles, and any other spots. Many other so-called doctors put their names to similar products, and arsenic was also a key ingredient in a lot of powders, soaps and lotions at the time. People already knew that arsenic was poisonous, but that didn’t stop them from indulging in it regularly in the name of clear skin.

Opium Night Masks: Around the same time that people were popping arsenic pills, 19th century women were also advised to coat their faces in opium overnight. The goal was to give the skin a refreshed appearance. After the opium had a few hours to settle in, it was washed away with a slash of ammonia in the morning (how refreshing).

Poison Eye Drops: In Italy, some women added deadly nightshade, otherwise referred to as belladonna (which means “beautiful lady”), to their beauty regimes. It was used to dilate their pupils for a more seductive appearance. As it was directly sourced from a poisonous plant, the practice often caused severe vision problems, and even blinded some. Though belladonna drops were preferred since their effects lasted longer, others put citrus juice directly into their eyes to get a similar look. (Like we said, natural isn’t always safer.)

Opting Out

While Canadian and EU cosmetics regulations are stricter than those in the U.S., there’s still some uneasiness surrounding several of the ingredients that are included in many of the products we use.

Because of this, it’s really up to you to find personal care products that meet your standards. So, make sure to only buy products that list every ingredient and take note of how high on the list they’re mentioned. (Pro tip: Ingredients used in the greatest amounts will be listed first.) Since we don’t all have the time to read and research the ingredient lists of every product we pick up, tools like the EWG Skin Deep Cosmetics Database can make the process a lot easier.

Luckily, awareness surrounding the issue has caused major retailers like Sephora and Ulta to create their own clean beauty breakdowns so you can avoid some of the most controversial ingredients without having to research them. Canada’s own terra20 is also on a mission to help shoppers find healthier products, and lets you browse skincare and makeup products with the help handy of filters.

Though the jury is still out on the official definition of clean beauty, we should all be keeping an eye out for key ingredients that just don’t sit well with us. If you’re not interested in checking ingredient lists or scoping out clean brands, just reducing the number of products that you use can help decrease your exposure to potentially harmful ingredients.

Stay clean, friends!